Demystifying Lemberger Wine:
Uncorking this Fascinating Grape and its Unique Characteristics
When most people hear the name Lemberger they think of a particularly smelly cheese with a similar name. Named after the Duchy of Limburger, and first made by Trappist monks in the mid-19th century, Limburger cheese is considered to be the ‘working man’s cheese’, often served on dark bread with onion slices accompanied by a beer. While wine and cheese may have originated in similar regions, they are not inherently linked by production or origin. Lemberger grapes can be found in wine-growing regions around the world, such as Canada, Hungary, and the US.
With this post, I'd like to savor the Lemberger grape and a specific winery taking full advantage of the amazing taste profile. The exact origin of Lemberger grapes is debated, but it’s believed to have been in the Austrian region of Lower Styria (now Slovenia) or in the neighboring Hungarian region of Sopron. The most widely grown red grape in Austria, the Lemberger variety spread across Central Europe and gained popularity due to its ability to thrive in diverse climates and produce quality red wines.
First introduced to the United States in the mid-19th century, Lemberger vines were initially planted in small quantities. A relatively obscure variety planted primarily by European immigrants who brought vine cuttings with them, Lemberger grapes gained more attention in the
60’s and 70’s with increased plantings and commercial production. Among the favorable growing conditions in various American wine regions, the Shenandoah Valley turned out to be a great location for this varietal. Located in western Virginia between the Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mountains, it was in this area that Susan and John Kiers purchased a farm in the late 90’s with the intention of growing wine grapes
The Kiers began selling their produce to area wineries and after years of sending grapes to other wineries, they decided to make their own wines. Susan and John eventually named the farm Ox-Eye Vineyards after a common daisy growing wild on the land and by 2010 they had built their own winery. The tasting room in Staunton Virginia, would open in April 2011 showcasing 2009 reds and 2010 whites.
Staunton is a vibrant community and popular tourist destination located close to the Shenandoah National Park. In addition to the many small businesses, local festivals and events, fans of historic architecture also enjoy Old City Hall, Empire Theater, and the Stonewall Jackson Hotel (recently renamed Hotel 24 South). Housed in the charming brick building that once served as a weigh station for the train depot, Ox-Eye Vineyard tasting room sits in the heart of downtown Staunton. In addition to the local flavor of a town that grew up around the Virginia Central Railroad, twice occupied by Union troops, home to several Confederate hospitals, and home to Mary Baldwin College and Stuart Hall… this area has a lot to offer.
Quite by accident, my wife and I came across the Kier’s wines during an afternoon visit to the downtown area. After browsing the farmers’ market and the local shops, we were surprised to find a variety of local wines for tasting. With a personal predilection towards red grape varietals, I opted for the Lemberger without any idea of what to expect…
Turns out, the Lemberger is a grape known for producing fruity wines with a hint of spice. Well balanced and flavorful, the wines are full bodied and have a smooth finish. With notes of blackberries, plums, cherries, raspberries, and spice, this is a grape that takes on the style and spirit of the winemaker. Typically peaking in youth, younger wines may seem fruity and vibrant, while well cellared bottles develop more complex flavors such as chocolate, leather, and tobacco.
Grapes, cotton, soybeans, or corn it’s farmers who love the land and produce that help make our lives healthier and more enjoyable. Vineyards are no different. Watching for frost, heavy rains, insect damage, or birds looking for an afternoon snack, Viticulturists strive to make sure their grapes are grown in the best possible way to produce high-quality wines. Soil types, grape varieties, and climate conditions all impact the quality and quantity of crops, but the basic process remains the same. Selecting vines suited to the local climate, tending the vineyard, hedging (hard work), pruning (more hard work), watching for snakes during hedging/pruning (jump scares), and harvesting, all fall under the work ethic carved in stone at the gate to Ox-Eye Vineyard:
Labor Omnia Vincit (Work Conquers All)
Ox-Eye Lemberger
Ox-Eye Winery is a great example of a small, family-owned winery committed to making high quality wines. They grow and bottle a variety of grapes. The sparkling Brut, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Traminette, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and yes of course… Lemberger wines are seasonally available to sample and purchase. So, when you find yourself in the Staunton area don’t forget to spend some time visiting the Ox-Eye tasting room. A warm and friendly atmosphere to sample some local wines and meet the winemakers if you’re lucky!
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